Age is flying out, as I write this he will be boarding the bus from Mexico City to join me in the electric craziness that is Oaxaca, on the most celebrated weekend of the year! As of tomorrow, or 2am today, I will no longer be a solo traveller. In a way I will miss this, I didn´t think I would. I have learnt to be self sufficient and this makes me feel very liberated, and Im proud of the fact that Im able to get around all of these countries all by myself. But, I will be very happy to see Age and we will have a different kind of adventure as a 2, and it will be so so lovely to share all of these amazing experiences and wonderful sights with him.
I will keep you posted on, now, our adventure.
Friday 30 October 2009
I have discovered Mezcal!
I´m a little bit fuzzy headed today as I´ve found a drinking buddy in my little Oaxacan hideaway in the hills. He´s a nice scottish guy, a science teacher, and we shared some beers and a bit too much Mezcal last night, which is made from cactus, similar to tequilla, tasty stuff, but quite potent! The bottle even comes with a worm inside, don´t ask me why - so disgusting, and John ate it urgh!!! It´s really nice to just sit in our little lounge area outside in the night air, kick back after a days lounging by the pool and just share a drink or 3 and have a giggle. The hostel is starting to fill up now in time for the Dias de Meurtos festivities so its so lovely to meet all these new people, young and old, couples, friends, people on their own, all on different adventures with stories to tell.
Tuesday 27 October 2009
Water falls
These are pics that I hadnt shown you of me at various water falls. The ones with me sat dressed beside the waterfall is in Suchitoto in El Salvador, the rock formations here were like the Giants Causeway. Then the 1 with me in the water, freezing water btw, as you can probably tell by my face is in Juayua and was 1 of seven stunning water falls hidden amongst a thick lush forrest, me an dthe guys that I met and shared rum with at the lovely hostel went here after our day at the food fair, and I think the walk and the shocking coldness of the water shook away our fuzzy heads from all that rum!
So content in my hideaway in the Oaxacan hills
I never want to forget this feeling of calm content and happiness, im sitting drinking a beer, by the pool of my beautiful hostel in the hills over looking Oaxaca City, this place is a gem! Ive decided, as Oaxaca will be my home for over a week, to head out of the city for 3 days to a little retreat just 20min drive away in the hills, to lay by the pool, soak up the glorious sun shine & submerse myself in a great new book that Ive found on the book shelf here & also practise my spanish home work too.
Ive only been here a few hours and I feel so refreshed & at ease. I think on this trip of mine, insticts play a big part, if you feel something is wrong then just dont go with it, walk away, but if you have that excited vibe immediatly about the place you are in & meeting great people, then stay, absorb everything it has to offer & just move on when you are ready. There is no rush & no time limit, just amazing experiences to be had.
I feel I am gushing, but my days are like a roller coaster of emotions, predominantly more ups than downs, this is for sure, but I feel like when I have a perfect evening like this or a whole day, I need to treasure it and store this feeling away somewhere so that I never forget it & once I am home can access it and be inspired to search for it again and bring it into my everyday life.
The family that run this hostel are so sweet and kind. The 2 brothers Javier & Chay run the buisness day to day but Chays children and their mother seem always to be floating around. The mother, I forget her name, I must ask her again tomorrow, was making Red Mole today and has been for the last 2 days, this is a spicy sauce that contains chilies, tomatoes, & a million other spices too all ground together and then made into a rich sauce that acompanys chicken and rice then when there is left overs you use it in tomales. She was making it in a huge pot outside on an open fire, I was chatting to her in Spanish and she let me try some, it tasted spicy and a little sweet, mmm yumi. She is preparing this and other local dishes for Dias de Meurtos (Day of the Dead) which is 1st and 2nd Nov and also celebrations on Halloween too. I have come to Oaxaca especially for this celebration which just so happens to precede my birthday nicely, 4 days of celebrations and traditional festivities are in order I think. Locals cook and get their families together to remember their loved ones who have pssed on, they think that on the 2nd day the spirits come back for this one day so they gather in cemetries and bring offerings and dance and I supose I will see what else they do. I think it is warm, family orientated & festive rather than morbid and sad, a celebration of life and the people who have lived and gone on to something new & exciting rather than a comemoration and mourning.
I wanted to spend these days in Mexico but it was Juash, the Mexican I met in Juayua that told me that Oaxaca is the best and most vibrant traditional place to be, and if I liked, his cousin may be able to show me around, so here I am, and so far, I love it.
Buenos Noches Amigos xxx
Ive only been here a few hours and I feel so refreshed & at ease. I think on this trip of mine, insticts play a big part, if you feel something is wrong then just dont go with it, walk away, but if you have that excited vibe immediatly about the place you are in & meeting great people, then stay, absorb everything it has to offer & just move on when you are ready. There is no rush & no time limit, just amazing experiences to be had.
I feel I am gushing, but my days are like a roller coaster of emotions, predominantly more ups than downs, this is for sure, but I feel like when I have a perfect evening like this or a whole day, I need to treasure it and store this feeling away somewhere so that I never forget it & once I am home can access it and be inspired to search for it again and bring it into my everyday life.
The family that run this hostel are so sweet and kind. The 2 brothers Javier & Chay run the buisness day to day but Chays children and their mother seem always to be floating around. The mother, I forget her name, I must ask her again tomorrow, was making Red Mole today and has been for the last 2 days, this is a spicy sauce that contains chilies, tomatoes, & a million other spices too all ground together and then made into a rich sauce that acompanys chicken and rice then when there is left overs you use it in tomales. She was making it in a huge pot outside on an open fire, I was chatting to her in Spanish and she let me try some, it tasted spicy and a little sweet, mmm yumi. She is preparing this and other local dishes for Dias de Meurtos (Day of the Dead) which is 1st and 2nd Nov and also celebrations on Halloween too. I have come to Oaxaca especially for this celebration which just so happens to precede my birthday nicely, 4 days of celebrations and traditional festivities are in order I think. Locals cook and get their families together to remember their loved ones who have pssed on, they think that on the 2nd day the spirits come back for this one day so they gather in cemetries and bring offerings and dance and I supose I will see what else they do. I think it is warm, family orientated & festive rather than morbid and sad, a celebration of life and the people who have lived and gone on to something new & exciting rather than a comemoration and mourning.
I wanted to spend these days in Mexico but it was Juash, the Mexican I met in Juayua that told me that Oaxaca is the best and most vibrant traditional place to be, and if I liked, his cousin may be able to show me around, so here I am, and so far, I love it.
Buenos Noches Amigos xxx
Monday 26 October 2009
2 long long days and one even longer night traveling to Mexico
Guatemala to Oaxaca in Mexico, a lot of ground to cover! Nice air con buses helped me get to my destination, andactually once in Mexico realised this is the only way Mexicans travel, unlike the rest of central americans on these crazy and fun disco chicken buses which I had grown to love very quickly, but now my modes of transport seemed a lot more civalized, serene, and can I say, a bit boring! My1ststop was Tapacula,just across the border, Igotinat 9pm so was praying a nice hotel was near by as usually Idont like to travel at night. On the bus I got chatting to, or rather he got chatting to me, an old prob mid fifties american guy named Bill, heoffered me some good tequilla in at lunch time at the beggining of our trip, I politly declined, but 8hrs later when still on the bus, I tookhiom up onhis kindoffer and we shared a few swigs together whilst hetoldme of his reasons for traveliing, divorce beingone of them, being kicked out ofhis house byhis wife and having a girlfriend inNicaragua being another! This passed the time untill I made my excuses and went back to my seat, with a slightly warm fuzzy feeling from the booze ahhh. Ifound a nicehotel right by the bus station andsettledfor thenight and Dirty Dancingwas playing on Cable so all was good.
Well,I thought Id head to the pacific ocean on my way to Oaxaca City, just for a few days, I seem to get withdrall symptoms if I dont spend a few lazy days hanging out at the beach every 2 wks or o, I think this is fair enough. BUT, and as you can see, this is a BIG BUT, unless I choose a beach which my guide book says is comercial and is equiped for tourists then it really is not worth going to. The big problem being the accomodation, or lack of, rather than the beaches themselves which are always pretty stunning. I arrived by collectivo taxi, to abeautiful strectch of Pacific Ocean, only to find myselfbombardedby men, trying to help me find a suitable place to stay for the night, this bit was fine, but I looked at 3 rooms in various locations just off the beach front and OH MY GOODNESS they got progresivly worse, as did my mood! Ok think Bankok Hilton!! these places were horrendos! I walked into this one room, which had a steeldoor and tiny tiny window like a prison cell, the lady was saying bonito si (pretty yes) paint peeling off the dirty stone walls, a scruffy sink in the corner, a skanky probably bug ridden dirty mattress on an old wooden frame and the thought even now,is sending shivers down me!! how on earth did these people think that this was acceptable, yes it was only $10a night but I wouldnt keep pigs in somewhere like that! so disgusting! but I actually found myself, just for 1 second thinkning, maybe it would do for just 1 night,then suddenly right away came to my senses and backed quickly out of the room smiling and cringing saying gracias but not for me and practicaly ran in the opposite direstion, which is kind of tricky with my 2 stone backpack on my back!! So,I hobbled to the pretty beach,sat and ate some good grilled fish and drank homemade lemonade and contemplated whilst being stared at by some local young chicos on quad bikes, what on earth to do next! Get the hell out of here, and maybe just see if there is a night bus all the way to Oaxaca City, this is exactly what I did. Luckilyonce Iarrived 2 busses later in Oaxaca City at 4am,I made afriend, an Israli guy named Joran, we whiled away the hours of the night in the bus station waiting forthe new light of the day so we could venture to a nice hostel, me eating cookies and us just swapping stories and chatting away, lovely,and as I hadnt really spoken to anyone properly in a day or 2 this came as quite refreshing. We found a lovely hostel, settled in, met another guy, called Danilefrom Bible camp in a near by village, he was sweet and acted as our tour guide for the morning, took usfor breakfast inthe local Plaza and we watched the day unfold and the city become alive, and I gotthat feeling of content and realised I had a found a little gemof a place and was very happy to call this home for the next week.
Well,I thought Id head to the pacific ocean on my way to Oaxaca City, just for a few days, I seem to get withdrall symptoms if I dont spend a few lazy days hanging out at the beach every 2 wks or o, I think this is fair enough. BUT, and as you can see, this is a BIG BUT, unless I choose a beach which my guide book says is comercial and is equiped for tourists then it really is not worth going to. The big problem being the accomodation, or lack of, rather than the beaches themselves which are always pretty stunning. I arrived by collectivo taxi, to abeautiful strectch of Pacific Ocean, only to find myselfbombardedby men, trying to help me find a suitable place to stay for the night, this bit was fine, but I looked at 3 rooms in various locations just off the beach front and OH MY GOODNESS they got progresivly worse, as did my mood! Ok think Bankok Hilton!! these places were horrendos! I walked into this one room, which had a steeldoor and tiny tiny window like a prison cell, the lady was saying bonito si (pretty yes) paint peeling off the dirty stone walls, a scruffy sink in the corner, a skanky probably bug ridden dirty mattress on an old wooden frame and the thought even now,is sending shivers down me!! how on earth did these people think that this was acceptable, yes it was only $10a night but I wouldnt keep pigs in somewhere like that! so disgusting! but I actually found myself, just for 1 second thinkning, maybe it would do for just 1 night,then suddenly right away came to my senses and backed quickly out of the room smiling and cringing saying gracias but not for me and practicaly ran in the opposite direstion, which is kind of tricky with my 2 stone backpack on my back!! So,I hobbled to the pretty beach,sat and ate some good grilled fish and drank homemade lemonade and contemplated whilst being stared at by some local young chicos on quad bikes, what on earth to do next! Get the hell out of here, and maybe just see if there is a night bus all the way to Oaxaca City, this is exactly what I did. Luckilyonce Iarrived 2 busses later in Oaxaca City at 4am,I made afriend, an Israli guy named Joran, we whiled away the hours of the night in the bus station waiting forthe new light of the day so we could venture to a nice hostel, me eating cookies and us just swapping stories and chatting away, lovely,and as I hadnt really spoken to anyone properly in a day or 2 this came as quite refreshing. We found a lovely hostel, settled in, met another guy, called Danilefrom Bible camp in a near by village, he was sweet and acted as our tour guide for the morning, took usfor breakfast inthe local Plaza and we watched the day unfold and the city become alive, and I gotthat feeling of content and realised I had a found a little gemof a place and was very happy to call this home for the next week.
Oh what a perfect day...
In Antigua again, and ive gotten to know the place quite well now, I love this feelingof familiarity in a place which untill recently I had never even heard of.
I was all set to leave my lovely and really cheap hostel, which included a great free breakfast of fresh fruit and pancakes and many other tasty treats too, always a winner, and head to Mexico,when I took a little early morning stroll into town, under the warm morning sunshine, watching the quaint little town come alive, andthoughtto myself,do I really wantto leave just yet?With my guide book in hand, which it permanently is these days, I noticved that for a small price, one could use the pool at a nearby swanky hotel, well, this cemented my decision, I was staying! On my way to check out the pool, I stumbled across Franks Salon and thought to myself, as much as I like my traveller, slightly surfer like scruffy long hair, it was maybe time for a trim, so I booked myself an appointyment with Frank himself, for the end of the day, so id have pretty hair for the evening, great!
Then I remembered about a photo exhibiton that i had seen advertised on my previous visit so I made my way there, to get a bit of culture and be inspired. It was a really amazing exhibiton including stills and video by photographers all aroundcentral and southAmerica, documenting their lives and also those of the people within their cities. Itwas exhibited within the ruinsof a beautiful building and half newbuilding too, so there was lots of nooks and cranies and archways & interesting natural light, happy and content. Then it was time for a little stroll around the jewelery & craft shops which there were tons of in amongst the cobbled streets and of course a spot of lunch which consisted of a delicious baked bread roll filled with spinach, herbs & peppers heated up so it was all gooey,mm mmm mmm.... thisfrom a fantastic tiny bakery I found hidden away from the main plaza, I took a picture of the young boy baking all of these lovely treats, he was only too happy to pose!
An afternoon at the pool side of this swish hotel swimming and soaking up the sun pretending that I was actually staying there and not my $5 pretty hostel up the road, I was so glad that I had stayed.
To top of the day I have a very pretty new hair do, a swish bob, have strolled around taking lovely pictures of the sun setting against a back drop of the volcano and cobbled streets and treated myself (again) to a really lovely local meal of spicy lamb stew with tamalas and rice and a large glass of red wine, happy happy happy :) xxx
Sunday 25 October 2009
Back in Antigua, a beautiful old ruined church
I explored this beautiful old ruined church with a nice Calafornian guy called Wilando that I had met just that morning on my tica bus from El Salvador. A funny, kind of creepy old man, well half man half umpalumpa showed us round and nearly had an asthma attack on the way just from climbing a few stairs - ah bless him...
Monday 19 October 2009
Mis lead by my guide book!!
Well, it was a sunday morning and I decided to leave my comfy, beautiful hostel and new friends in Juayua in search of a beautiul lake, what a mistake! Its silly beacuse my insticts were telling me to just stay in this lovely place another day, enjoy more good food at the food fair and just laze in the hammocks and plan properly where to head to next, but no, this was too easy and off I went in search of Lake Coatapeque, as it looked stunning, and my guide book made the accomodation sound wonderful. Well 6hrs later, I only just arrive, after taking a slightly wrong bus to an area just 5km from where I was meant to be, and having to stand, being stared at by the side of the road for an hour, dying for the loo, waiting for the right bus!! No fun, and I was close to tears, sounds silly now, but I was really fed up and annoyed at myself or A, not staying in comfort of Juayua and B, no taking the right bloomin conectinmg bus!!
I tell myself all will be fine if once I get to my destination the acomodation is how descibed in my guidebook and how it looked from the pictures I googled, but on no, far far from it!
The place had a different name, maybe it had just changed hands, 80 percent of it was under construction or being decorated, the pool had no water in it!! and the dorm was shabby and no one else was there so Id be all on my own, in this bleak, slightly dirty dorm which was on stilts by the waters edge, a bit isolated!! I didnt have much choice as I took the liberty of venturing next door to a lively hotel where there was actually people and music but the room there was 3 times the price, had no bathroom and was rubbish too., so I opted to stay with the cheap rubbish one. On the up side, I was on the edge of this picture esque lake, the sun was close to setting and I had a beer to hand, so I curled up in a deck chair, read my book, took a few piccies, drank my beer to take the edge off my day, then went in search of a couple of tasty Pupusas, horrah I found them easily at least. Needless to say, I did not sleep well, Jonathan I thanked goodness for my silk sleeping liner, so my skin didnt have to touch the bed sheets urgh! and slept with one eye open, kept awake by the whipping wind and crashing rain, creaking sounds all around me, and the constant thought that the boogie man may break the flimsy lock in the night and get me!!
Ah occasionally Im going to come across these places, but I do hope that they are few and far between.
Adios, and wish me luck in finding somewhere lovely to lay my head tonight xx
I tell myself all will be fine if once I get to my destination the acomodation is how descibed in my guidebook and how it looked from the pictures I googled, but on no, far far from it!
The place had a different name, maybe it had just changed hands, 80 percent of it was under construction or being decorated, the pool had no water in it!! and the dorm was shabby and no one else was there so Id be all on my own, in this bleak, slightly dirty dorm which was on stilts by the waters edge, a bit isolated!! I didnt have much choice as I took the liberty of venturing next door to a lively hotel where there was actually people and music but the room there was 3 times the price, had no bathroom and was rubbish too., so I opted to stay with the cheap rubbish one. On the up side, I was on the edge of this picture esque lake, the sun was close to setting and I had a beer to hand, so I curled up in a deck chair, read my book, took a few piccies, drank my beer to take the edge off my day, then went in search of a couple of tasty Pupusas, horrah I found them easily at least. Needless to say, I did not sleep well, Jonathan I thanked goodness for my silk sleeping liner, so my skin didnt have to touch the bed sheets urgh! and slept with one eye open, kept awake by the whipping wind and crashing rain, creaking sounds all around me, and the constant thought that the boogie man may break the flimsy lock in the night and get me!!
Ah occasionally Im going to come across these places, but I do hope that they are few and far between.
Adios, and wish me luck in finding somewhere lovely to lay my head tonight xx
Saturday 17 October 2009
Juayua
Hey, im in Juayua, pronounced why you uh, in the hills in north west El Salvador. Im staying in such a sweet hostel, its really relaxed with lots of comfy areas, hammocks and chair swings in the garden for lazing and relaxing with a glass of wine, I think illstay a few days...
There are a few lovely people here too, 2 Canadians, 1 mexican, 2 Americans and 1 other English si}upprizingly as we are very few and far between! We all shared wine and lots of good rum last night, was so lovely to finaly have other people to interact with over a drink or 3!
Every weekend they have a food fair here, so I picked the best time to visit and sample lots of culinary delights which you know makes me so so happy!
There are also lots of beautiful sights nearby like water fuls, trecks through the mountains and volcanos too . Im off to explore
There are a few lovely people here too, 2 Canadians, 1 mexican, 2 Americans and 1 other English si}upprizingly as we are very few and far between! We all shared wine and lots of good rum last night, was so lovely to finaly have other people to interact with over a drink or 3!
Every weekend they have a food fair here, so I picked the best time to visit and sample lots of culinary delights which you know makes me so so happy!
There are also lots of beautiful sights nearby like water fuls, trecks through the mountains and volcanos too . Im off to explore
Friday 16 October 2009
The crazy city that is San Salvador!!
Yes im in San Salvador, this is a crazy place. It´s so so busy and bustling all the time which is great as this makes me feel safe, it has the most crazy market stalls (im thinking which must be a bit like India!), there is pupusas and fruit shakes being sold from every angle, ive become friends with a half Latino half Korean family who own a creperie - delcious! who have taken me out for pupusas, offered me their spare room for free as they live near all of the museums, and would like to take me on a trip into the hills to visit quaint towns and volcanos at the weekend! This is so so lovely but I think there is only so much kindness I can take before I start to back away and my mind thinks there must be some sort of catch! but no they are actually just lovely people and despite all of the old pervs that like to have a good stare, this city and actually it seems all of Central America seems to be filled with the kindest and very genuine people who just want to help when they see someone who needs it, and generally I do!
So after navigating my way around the city yesterday, visiting a good bunch of shops, (thank goodness for posh department stores that sell real chocolate!) got myself a pedicure, i´ve got happy pretty feet again, got a healthy dose of culture at the MARTE modern art museum and found Fernando Llorts (the most popular Salvadorian artist) gallery and work shop, I was happy and feel I have seen my fill of San Salvador.
This morning is my last in the city for now and im going to explore on foot some more, find the New Cathedral which is meant to be stunning and has 2 large murals by Fernado on the outside, which will be interesting to see as his work comprises of simple shapes, figures and animals and has a great bright use of colour, so on the outside of a white washed church, this will make a refreshing change. Then sit back in the park and atempt to read my Latino copy of Vogue and plan my trip to the hills.
Adios amigos xxx
So after navigating my way around the city yesterday, visiting a good bunch of shops, (thank goodness for posh department stores that sell real chocolate!) got myself a pedicure, i´ve got happy pretty feet again, got a healthy dose of culture at the MARTE modern art museum and found Fernando Llorts (the most popular Salvadorian artist) gallery and work shop, I was happy and feel I have seen my fill of San Salvador.
This morning is my last in the city for now and im going to explore on foot some more, find the New Cathedral which is meant to be stunning and has 2 large murals by Fernado on the outside, which will be interesting to see as his work comprises of simple shapes, figures and animals and has a great bright use of colour, so on the outside of a white washed church, this will make a refreshing change. Then sit back in the park and atempt to read my Latino copy of Vogue and plan my trip to the hills.
Adios amigos xxx
Tuesday 13 October 2009
Im at the beach horrah!!
Hola.
Im in a lovely little surfer spot on the pacific coast of El Salvador called El Tunco. With black volcanic sand, I think the softest, smoothest, finest sand that I have ever felt underneath my toes, lovely.
It wasn't all plain sailing to get here though as I first headed to a place funnily enough called Costa Del Sol! thinking it sounded less touristy and exclusive. There I am sat on another crazy bus, edging up this quiet road, passing signs for all the places near to where iI was meant to be headed, but it didnt look very inviting, then I saw a sign for my destination, and still everything was so quiet and run down, and what seemed like they might be hotels, looked closed and uninviting, so I stayed, glued to my seat, in the hope of coming across some other place that looked wonderful... The driver and the conductor just kept looking at me as if to say, you have to get off sometime, but what I have figured out is that Im good at getting on buses, but once there, never have the courage to get off agian, and just stay on in the hope of being taken to somewhere lovely, that or being forced to get off coz we've reached the end of the line! This is what happened and I had to explain that I was lost, well kind of and didnt get off where I should have done, anyway the driver and conductor were so kind, and looked inmy guide book at the hotel I was trying to find and explained that they would turn th ebus round and take me right to the door, thank goodness for human kindness!!
Well I reached my hotel, it was a bit like something from Canvey Island, (Age you will know whjat I mean by this, following our random day spent there last bank holiday!) there was a murkey pool, with 2 slides, one at either end plonked right next to a litle row of basic rooms. The owner, Marco was kind and friendly and showed me to my room, it was ok, but did have ants, and one lot of them were carrying a small pice of food up the wall into a small crevice in the celing - well come I thought to myself, it was fine apart from this. But I was a bit tired and v hungry, and a bit disapointed at my destination after all these hours and hopes of trying to find the beautiful promised Cost del Sol!
So the hotel did have 2 other tourists, and they were checking in at the same time, 2 up beat chirpy Americans. I set off to find the beqach, hoping that hidden behind this quiet strip of village was a beautiful untouched exclusive beach, well it was exclusive to pigs, chickens and wild skanky dogs!! and that was once I had walked through what looked to be a shanty town, (I feel bad saying that) and wives gutting the produce that the local fishermen had caught that day, v smelly, I didnt like it and didnt want to stay. I quickly headed back to my room, where I bumped into Tori and Stu who asked all smiles how the beach was, I just couldn't muster enough enthusiasm to smile, (and this isnt like me) I think my face looked like I had swallowed something v sour and I mumbled its OK, and hurried into my room, sat on my bed and had a 3 second cry, then said to myself stop being so silly, its safe here, you have an ok room, just go find some cookies (this is all I ever seem to be able to find in the middle of the day when the only restaurant around is closed untill dinner time and this is the best thing on offer in the only shop around) so I eat a lot of cookies!! and then laid in the hammock and read my guide book.
The day got better, you'll be happy to know. I poped my bikini on and gave the beach another chance, this time walked a bit further, wwaded in the sea, took a long walk up the beach and enjoyed looking at the locals, folding up their fishing nets after a days work, kids playing in the surf and realised it wasnt soo terrible after all.
Later I ventured into the murky pool, only after Tori and Stu had had a dip seemed to survive, it was actually quite refreshing.Then later ventured out onto the street to the local Pupuseria and watched this lady and her daughter make about a million of these tasty treats and sell them to locals their as take away diner and took a seat to eat a couple myself, this made me happy, they were so tasty and id obviously found a good spot as this place, this tiny road side stall with a few plastic chairsand tables was bustling now with hungry customers, yey! I was finally content.
So the next morning after my pancakes that Marco made for me I headed off on yet another crazy disco bus, they make me smile these crazy buses! to my next destination, El Tunco.
Im staying in lovely little hotel, about 5 rooms, I have my own bathroom and there is a kitchen and a little sofa area over looking an estuary that leads to the sea about 100m away, and the owner is such a sweet young lady. It is my 4th day here, and I am settled. I go to the same lovely little restaurant called Erikas for yumi pancakes at breakfast time and then for great fresh cheap sea food in the evenings after a day at the beach, laying on the black soft sand and negotiating my way into the choppy sea water over lots pebbles and trying not to let the strong rip tide topple me over. I like to feel settled for a few days at a time rather than getting on and off buses each day and seeing other sights non stop. There is lots more of El Salvador that Id like to see, but for now, at this moment, the sun is shining and Im gonna head back to the beach and thank goodness that I found this place and also that it is mid october and im able to venture out into the hot hot hot sun and top up my tan! may even grab an ice cream sunday on the way
Hasta luego xxxxx
Im in a lovely little surfer spot on the pacific coast of El Salvador called El Tunco. With black volcanic sand, I think the softest, smoothest, finest sand that I have ever felt underneath my toes, lovely.
It wasn't all plain sailing to get here though as I first headed to a place funnily enough called Costa Del Sol! thinking it sounded less touristy and exclusive. There I am sat on another crazy bus, edging up this quiet road, passing signs for all the places near to where iI was meant to be headed, but it didnt look very inviting, then I saw a sign for my destination, and still everything was so quiet and run down, and what seemed like they might be hotels, looked closed and uninviting, so I stayed, glued to my seat, in the hope of coming across some other place that looked wonderful... The driver and the conductor just kept looking at me as if to say, you have to get off sometime, but what I have figured out is that Im good at getting on buses, but once there, never have the courage to get off agian, and just stay on in the hope of being taken to somewhere lovely, that or being forced to get off coz we've reached the end of the line! This is what happened and I had to explain that I was lost, well kind of and didnt get off where I should have done, anyway the driver and conductor were so kind, and looked inmy guide book at the hotel I was trying to find and explained that they would turn th ebus round and take me right to the door, thank goodness for human kindness!!
Well I reached my hotel, it was a bit like something from Canvey Island, (Age you will know whjat I mean by this, following our random day spent there last bank holiday!) there was a murkey pool, with 2 slides, one at either end plonked right next to a litle row of basic rooms. The owner, Marco was kind and friendly and showed me to my room, it was ok, but did have ants, and one lot of them were carrying a small pice of food up the wall into a small crevice in the celing - well come I thought to myself, it was fine apart from this. But I was a bit tired and v hungry, and a bit disapointed at my destination after all these hours and hopes of trying to find the beautiful promised Cost del Sol!
So the hotel did have 2 other tourists, and they were checking in at the same time, 2 up beat chirpy Americans. I set off to find the beqach, hoping that hidden behind this quiet strip of village was a beautiful untouched exclusive beach, well it was exclusive to pigs, chickens and wild skanky dogs!! and that was once I had walked through what looked to be a shanty town, (I feel bad saying that) and wives gutting the produce that the local fishermen had caught that day, v smelly, I didnt like it and didnt want to stay. I quickly headed back to my room, where I bumped into Tori and Stu who asked all smiles how the beach was, I just couldn't muster enough enthusiasm to smile, (and this isnt like me) I think my face looked like I had swallowed something v sour and I mumbled its OK, and hurried into my room, sat on my bed and had a 3 second cry, then said to myself stop being so silly, its safe here, you have an ok room, just go find some cookies (this is all I ever seem to be able to find in the middle of the day when the only restaurant around is closed untill dinner time and this is the best thing on offer in the only shop around) so I eat a lot of cookies!! and then laid in the hammock and read my guide book.
The day got better, you'll be happy to know. I poped my bikini on and gave the beach another chance, this time walked a bit further, wwaded in the sea, took a long walk up the beach and enjoyed looking at the locals, folding up their fishing nets after a days work, kids playing in the surf and realised it wasnt soo terrible after all.
Later I ventured into the murky pool, only after Tori and Stu had had a dip seemed to survive, it was actually quite refreshing.Then later ventured out onto the street to the local Pupuseria and watched this lady and her daughter make about a million of these tasty treats and sell them to locals their as take away diner and took a seat to eat a couple myself, this made me happy, they were so tasty and id obviously found a good spot as this place, this tiny road side stall with a few plastic chairsand tables was bustling now with hungry customers, yey! I was finally content.
So the next morning after my pancakes that Marco made for me I headed off on yet another crazy disco bus, they make me smile these crazy buses! to my next destination, El Tunco.
Im staying in lovely little hotel, about 5 rooms, I have my own bathroom and there is a kitchen and a little sofa area over looking an estuary that leads to the sea about 100m away, and the owner is such a sweet young lady. It is my 4th day here, and I am settled. I go to the same lovely little restaurant called Erikas for yumi pancakes at breakfast time and then for great fresh cheap sea food in the evenings after a day at the beach, laying on the black soft sand and negotiating my way into the choppy sea water over lots pebbles and trying not to let the strong rip tide topple me over. I like to feel settled for a few days at a time rather than getting on and off buses each day and seeing other sights non stop. There is lots more of El Salvador that Id like to see, but for now, at this moment, the sun is shining and Im gonna head back to the beach and thank goodness that I found this place and also that it is mid october and im able to venture out into the hot hot hot sun and top up my tan! may even grab an ice cream sunday on the way
Hasta luego xxxxx
Saturday 10 October 2009
Copan and the Mayan ruins
Hey, I forgot to attach these pics of the Mayan ruins in Copan.They were pretty impresive, but what was so lovely was hat nature has intervened over the years and added something extra, the ruins are now surrounded by these absolutly huge amazing trees, the trees also grow inbetween the cracks in the ruins. I think I loved these beautiful trees and seeing the magnificent shapes they have created more than the actual ruins. So here are lots of pics I couldn't help but take of these beautiful trees. We also went on a nature walk just near the ruins and this is the most impresive forrest I have ever been in. Tarzan and monkeys would be so extactic with the vines that dangle from every tree, it would enable such a fun way of getting round without touching he floor!!
With a couple of these tree pictures id love to create screen prints on silk as I think the shapes would look so beautiful on a material texture, hanging on my wall reminding me of this extraudinary place.
It could have been so romantic...
I was in Suchitoto, a small beautiful white washed town in the hills of El Salvador. I took a walk down a very steep hill to such a stunning lake (see pics below) So there I was, sitting by this breath taking lake, late afternoon, which I think is my favorite time of day, an hour or so before sunset, when everything is calm and the sky is shades of milky bluey / pink and the hot day is nearly over but the night time is just beggining. I took a seat on a bench over looking the smooth lapping waters of the lake, love songs were playing in the back ground and a loved up young couple sauntered past me, arm in arm and gazing into each ohers eyes, and took a seat to my right. A little wave of sadness washed over me, this was such a romantic moment & place and here I was sat all by myself, with no one to share it with, but myself!! I had mixed emotions, I felt I could shed a little tear, but at the same time, could smile to myself as it was all a bit cliche, and actually, thought to myself, it was a Wednesday afternoon, I had gotten myself to El Salvador and to a pretty amazing place, and I was privallaged to be sat here enjoying this amazing view, so I smiled, took the scenary in some more and decided to make a move back to town as it was a long steep walk and I didnt want to be finding my way in the dark, plus I thought it was about time I found somewhere nice to enjoy a glass of wine as it had been 10 days since Id had a drink and 5wks since a lovely glass of wine!!
It was in the restaurant of my Hostel, El Gringo that I tried my first Salvadorian local dish - Pupusas, these are really tasty doughy patties, filled with anything of your choice, I tried queso y espineca, (cheese & spinach) so soooo good, they are flat with the filling sandwiched inside, and toasted on a hot grill so all the filling goes gooey and delicious, Im a big fan and prefer these to baleadas the local food of Honduras! The food was the only upside to Hostel Gringo, well that and the price, but my room, was kind of like a shed with 6 beds and a tin roof and an outside loo! urgh! theres basic and theres cattle shed!!! It was clean and I had the whole thing to myself as tourists are far and few between at the moment but I didnt like it and should have gone to the pretty place over looking the lake that was in my guide book, but the owner, Roberto had found me in town fresh off the bus and looking lost and it said in my guide book that he was a good person to know and could give advice on the area, I didnt have the heart to leave.
Anyway, that night there was a concert in town with fire works and the local army played in a brass band, it was so quaint. Before it started I bought myself a lovely glass of red wine and sat in the posh restaurant over looking the plaza, watching it fill up with locals and tourists freshly bussed in for the event. I was content. I finished my wine and headed closer to the band, just people watching, and being watched (I get stared at everywhere, as I look so different from everyone in Central America) but I enjoy looking at the local people too and seeing how their faces are differnt to mine, so I suppose they are only doing the same, but it does make me very self concious. This was such a lovely little event, and the fire works spelled out Beinvenidos to Suchitoto, I thought then that id love to find somewhere like this to spend Christmas, a small town filled with locals enjoy and sharing quiant traditions with each other. Then I met Manuel, was was nice and who said I was very beautiful and after 3-4 min of chit chat asked if I had a boyfriend, as to which I answered yes I do thank you very much. He worked for the tourist board and was taking pics of the event, so I prompted him to go carry on taking pictures whilst I headed in the other direction to a local lady cooking Pupusas, mm yes time for another little snack.
It was in the restaurant of my Hostel, El Gringo that I tried my first Salvadorian local dish - Pupusas, these are really tasty doughy patties, filled with anything of your choice, I tried queso y espineca, (cheese & spinach) so soooo good, they are flat with the filling sandwiched inside, and toasted on a hot grill so all the filling goes gooey and delicious, Im a big fan and prefer these to baleadas the local food of Honduras! The food was the only upside to Hostel Gringo, well that and the price, but my room, was kind of like a shed with 6 beds and a tin roof and an outside loo! urgh! theres basic and theres cattle shed!!! It was clean and I had the whole thing to myself as tourists are far and few between at the moment but I didnt like it and should have gone to the pretty place over looking the lake that was in my guide book, but the owner, Roberto had found me in town fresh off the bus and looking lost and it said in my guide book that he was a good person to know and could give advice on the area, I didnt have the heart to leave.
Anyway, that night there was a concert in town with fire works and the local army played in a brass band, it was so quaint. Before it started I bought myself a lovely glass of red wine and sat in the posh restaurant over looking the plaza, watching it fill up with locals and tourists freshly bussed in for the event. I was content. I finished my wine and headed closer to the band, just people watching, and being watched (I get stared at everywhere, as I look so different from everyone in Central America) but I enjoy looking at the local people too and seeing how their faces are differnt to mine, so I suppose they are only doing the same, but it does make me very self concious. This was such a lovely little event, and the fire works spelled out Beinvenidos to Suchitoto, I thought then that id love to find somewhere like this to spend Christmas, a small town filled with locals enjoy and sharing quiant traditions with each other. Then I met Manuel, was was nice and who said I was very beautiful and after 3-4 min of chit chat asked if I had a boyfriend, as to which I answered yes I do thank you very much. He worked for the tourist board and was taking pics of the event, so I prompted him to go carry on taking pictures whilst I headed in the other direction to a local lady cooking Pupusas, mm yes time for another little snack.
Thursday 8 October 2009
Back at the bird park
Beautiful shapes, trees, and us in the natural lagoon, cold and refreshing mmmm.
Lake Atitlan in Guatemala
Beutiful view of the lake, a lady doing some weaving and 2 lovely little girls on the bus on my journey home, they were so sweet and were eating corn and offered me some, I politly declined but secretly really wanted some as it looked soo soo tasty. They had been shopping for jewelery at the market and were trying everything on, so lovely to watch, I had to take their picture, they just laughed and became quite shy.
Tuesday 6 October 2009
I love Birds!
We went to an amazing Bird park in Copan in Honduras, the place was so calming and beautiful with so many types of trees and plants and birds that they breed and nurse back to health after locals bring them in because they are pests or are injured.
You can see I am clearly at one with these birds and totally comfortable with 3 very large Macaws on my arms!!
Whereas Jana, my biologist friend from the Iguana station is totally scared of them, (did I get this the right way round) he he xxxx
More pics of the volcano
Walking up to the volcano in the cold misty morning and then on the way down when the mist was clearing and we couold see really lush farm land behond the rubble of the 2 volcanos that we were standing on, the contrast was huge and very strange to see.
Me on a horse, it wasnt my idea, David insisted, in his french accent, ooh get on thee orse! and av a foto! I promise I did the whole treck on my own 2 feet, Mum look I finally had a chance to wear my lovely new walking shoes and thought of me and you in that shop in the lakes, trying on a million pairs, well it worked as I had no blisters and had v happy feet!
This was our guide, a lovely man, spoke only in Spanish so yes, I didnt understand a thing! xxx
Picaya Volcano in Guatemala
Yes - thats right, Ive just been to Guatemala, kind of a flying visit. Take a look at these pics from the active volcano! It was sooo incredible!
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