My India.....x

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3 3 3 3weeks gone by and Wow wee ive done a lot!

Im truely experiencing India, I think experiencing is exactly the right word to explain what you do when you visit India. You dont just look at it from near or far, or glance and walk away, strolling as you go. You dive right in head first, whether you like it or not, submerse yourself into this grimy, Oh so busy, wonderfully colourful, magical tradition filled, overwhelming and relentless place and do your best to take everything on board as best you can, without, if you can help it, being attacked by monkeys, stepping in cow plop, having your bum felt, being ripped off by one of the many many touts, or run over by 1 or more of the 100,000 rikshaws, but, hopefully along the way, as I have, you will be cooked for, dressed up, adorned with gifts and generosity, tasted and smelled fabuloous sweet & savory treats, taken part in mezmerising ceremonies & encounter some of the most incredibly stunning temples and mosques EVER!
The Rollercoaster, that is India, continues. Heres my journey...

Ill start with where I am now, near the end of my triop, only 5 days to go and im at the beach in the south, Kerala yey! OI love the beach.
Its beach time, yey! Feels like ages since I spent some lovely time lazing on the beach, walks on the sand and cool dips in the sea. Im in Varkala for a few days, its bliss! Mum is treating me to a lovely hotel, its like a wooden cabin, upstairs. There is 3 rooms and I have the one on th eend, which I think is the best as no one walks past. Its surrounded by lush palm trees and I can see the beach and hear the crashing waves, so so lovely. The room is all wooden, just like a cabin, it has a huge lovely big white bed with white cotton sheets and there is also another slightly smaller bed in gthe room too.I have quite a large bathroom and a littl room with a fridge and kettle, so I can prepare some fruit If I like and also keep my frinks cold. I also have a table and chairs in my room too, its lovely and Ihave a large balcony, all for me with a table, 2 whicker chairs, a whicker hanging chair and also a large hammock. Brilliant! The restaurant of the hotel sits over looking the beach and the food is really really good. I practically eat all 3 meals there every day, or sometimes wander back from the beach at lunch time for a lovely buttery naan for my lunch and take it to my balcony and eat it listening to the sound of the sea, sat in my whicker chair with my feet up, reading. Bloody lovely! At times here, I forget I am in India, I could be anywhere, the sun is visiously hot, I keep getting burnt, which is unlike me on this trip, normally Im trying do hard not to get burnt that I apply way too much sun cream! But here, its happened twice already! The weather has been fantastic, sometimes a little cloudy but thats fine, warm but not sticky, lovely and fresh and its so refreshing to be away from the hectic madness of the streets for a while. After my 2nd day though, the manager, Bhasker, who has actually let me stay in one of the nicer suites rather than the standard room, and still for my agreed original price, bless him, let me know that there was to be a festival, one where the local people celebrate and remember their dead, their loved ones. Its interesting becasue I have seen this in Mexico with Age back in November, Day of the Dead and that was wonderful so It would be really interesting to see what went on here. Well, flood lights had been put up, the beach was starting to fill up with people from about midday, people marking out sections of sand and then sitting in the middle of them, slowly slowly, things started taking shape. Then the next morning I woke to the sound of indian music floating through my windows. I headed to the restarant for breakfast and to over look everything that was happening. It was heaving!! so so many people on this small beach, hundreds and hundreds, filling every available inch of space. Within people little sections now was the families, a picture of their loved one & shrines to them. Men were running in and out of the sea, just in their Dupattas, these are the nappy / sarong things that they wear. TRhey were splashing around in the water. Food was being sold and eaten, music played loudly, lots of ceremonies taking place, lots of chatting and noise, just people people everywhere. I finished my pinapple fritters and went to explore further. If I couldnt sun bathe, then I wanted to get stuck into what was going on instead. That I did. I ambled through the crowds, obsering all of the rituals as I went. Preists, I asume thats what they were or something similar, spiritual leaders maybe, were scattered among the crowds, all in the middle of small ish groups of people, who were on their knees. Tables of rice, spices, banana leaves, water & flowers filled these cirlces that had been formed within the hectic crowds. I stopped every now and then to take pictures, careful not to intrude on their prayers and rituals, but so wanting to capture these moments. So there i was wandering around snapping and looking when one of the priests gestures me over, oops im in trouble I thought, but no, he wanted me to join in. Again I though as I knelt on the sand, Im not entriely appropraiaty dressed, my vest top is a little bit too low cut, oh well, too late now, and am sure this guy standing above me doesnt mind! He gives me a banana leaf, then I hold out my hand (this is all done in Melelanam) I think thats how you say the launguage in Kerala. So gestures for me to hold out my hands and reciev rice, then put that down onto the leaf, then some black seeds in my hands then, water to wash thenm away, a grass rope around my finger and a dot on my head and then turn around 3 times then go to the waters edge and throw it all in and pray, a lovely experience to hace taken opart in.



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After Delhi came the serenity that was Vrindavan. Home of Krishna and a small and very spiritual place, a bit of a god send after the rubble filled madness of Delhi. 1 3hr sweaty train journey, a small carriage filled with 12 people, all pairs of 12 eyes on me, practically the whole journey, luckily the saving grace was that 3 of those pairs of eyes were womens, 2 kind young girls and their mum, pretty things, all smiles at me and even though we couldnt speak a common launguage, our body launguage of smiling, eye glances and gestures got us a long way and made the journey suprizingly sweet. 1 rikshaw later past the stalls and cows wandering the roads we ended up at the Krishna temple that was to be my home for the next few calm days, ahhhh.
I arrived thinking that I could practise yoga & meditation each day and work on the land, or in the garden, similar to what I had been doing in Argentina at their sister camp. But no, it is off season and just too hot to work, the man who runs the yoga classes has taken his break, but Praneshwara, the man in charge, a nice zen like down to earth Brazilian, said that he was more than happy that I had come to visit and that as it was short notice he couldnt let me know that there was non of thse activities on offer but that he was happy I stay, rest, relax, take some time for myself and that he would arrange for me to see lots of the many mosques and lots that Vrindavan, this tranquil, spiritual haven has to offer, well, wonderful, thats suited me just fine. There were monkeys EVERYWHERE, all over the garden, playing with each other, being cheeky, swinging from the plants and trees, being a bit naughty! Brilliant I thought. My days were filled with going to lots of mosques and seeing various ceremonies and celebrations and general praying, I was shown around by the only young indian Krishna, Rup Das (apart from Pranaswerea. It really was great and such a fortunate experience. Ill just tell you about 1 of the nights I had. I went down to the river with Gopi a colombian girl who lived there and an indian guy just stayoing at the ashram for a week to practise his spanish with Gopi. It was called Arte, and it was a ritual that happened every single evening of the year. Down by the waters edge, both women, man and families gather to sing, clap, chant, throw bright pink flowers into the river and pour milk out of golden challences with long spouts.There was a young man kind of doing singing and a bit of mc ing on a mike and another beating drums. Little girls went round everyone and put the red dots on our foreheads and we all had a turn chanting and throwing flowers into the river and milk to cleanse it I suppose and ourselves. It was so full of energy! Just amazing to watch, there was a man with a a huge grey beard and he was old and wize, he was the leader and singing on his own. Then the rains came, we all rushed under cover of one of the arches, there was a bout 60 people. Then we were all given a silver tray with a candle in the middle and flowers around the edge, we sang again and threw the flowers into the water, some landing on peoples heads as there was about 6 deep of people before the river oops! Then the bearded man lit all his candles and ours, he had a whole pyrimd of them about 2ft high! and he was dancing and th edrums were beating and he was swaying and smoke was swirling everywhere, the rain at this point was lashing down around us, bu twe were covered. It wqas like a party, so vibrant and mesmorizing and emotional. We swayed our tray of candles too, everyone joined in,fabulous! Then when it all stopped and it was over, I met the bearded man and he put his hands on my head and blessed me, for a while actually so Gopi could capture it on film. I so love LOve Love all of these tradiotns in India, they never cease, they happen all days, everyone gets invloved. Goes to their temples or mosques before work, just to say hi to their god and show their respect, have a few mintues calm before their day starts. Takes time out of their busy and hard lives to give and recieve energy and spirit from something else. Its not formal, anyone can go to these things, its a celebration and everyone is well come, and I like that.

Im pictured eating Jabelis, a very sweet almost fritter like thing, deep fried and all sugery and gooey and they come in squiggles, so so tasty. Mmm I could eat some now ahhhhh.

The Krishnas were so welcoming and helpfula nd kind. I ate really well, 3 meals a day. Wowee they can certainly put away the rice! my goodness they probably eat about a kilo of it each a day easily!! I only had a little bit and my tummy was bloated, but such tasty vegie food, served on the floor in the temple, they eat with their fingers mainly, I had a spoon, havent yet learnt to eat sauces and dahl with my fingers yet, and only 1 hand too, the right one.

Vrindavan is a very holy place, the old come here to die as from hwere apparently ytyou get a straight pass onot your destination, hopefully heaven, no stops in between, There ar enot many western tourists here, I think I saw 1 in 4 days, that is a good thing, a bit more untouched and real. But some things were still hard to get my head around, and at times I felt lonely and a bit isolated. 1 morning when I went to help out at a local school. I came down wearing a knee length floral dress, well, Rup Das´s face was a picture, he looked at me like I had just walked acrross the lawn wearoing AP underwear! you cant wear that he said, not here and definatly not to a school!! Bugger, I only really had 1 appropriate thing, and I had been waering that for days, oh well, back upstairs to change. Its just little things like that and maybe watching what you say, and constantly wondering how to act when its just you and your in a small place like this, not wanting to offend anyone. Anyway, in tghe rickshaw on the way to the school, I felt a bit close to tears, this occasionally happens in india to me, I dont actually cry, it just all gets a bit overwhelming sometimes. So, were we in the pedal rickshaw, myself and Rup neither of us very chatty that morning, me wearing my long dress I had bought thank goodness in Singapore and my trusty pashmina wraped around my shoulders, when suddenely, it started to get tight around my shoulders, and then neck, ooohh ouch, whats happening I thought quickly, then I was almost being strangled!! bloody hell, I looked down and it was caught in the wheel, and being wrapped around tighter and tighter and I was being strangles in the process!! ooh stop the ricksaw I said to REup rather meekly, a bit louder stop peddaling! Rup my ashmina its stucl, help help!! I think the driver was a bit deaf as it took hoim a while to actually stop and get what we were trying to tell him, I was half laughing, half just wanted to cry and quite embarrsed, Rup must have been thinking, bllody hell, this English girl and her clothes! I had to then climb out of the rickshaw, something which isnt that easy in a dress despoeratly tryonmbg not to show any flesh!! and untangle my now muddy scarf, then heave myself back in, shit!! Would this day get any better. It was funny, but just on top of things was alittle hard to take. Anyway, then the rain came, of course it did! but we got to the school just in time not to get soaked. Well, my day did turn around right there, I was in a class room just for the morning with the street kids. Kids obviously from the st, and of all ages ranging from 1-11, in a tiny bleak room, trying to get some education and learn their ABC and write I like Vrindavan, Well they were climbing all over me, I think they justy wanted attention and a cuddle poor things. Some were bright and knew a lot, some just sat on the mat starring at their chalk board. Others climbed all over my legs and put heir arms around my neck whilsgt I wrote on their chalk board, my name is.... I like.... but I soon realised they coulod only copy, a lot couldnt read it back to me or understand what it actually said. This class is just for gthe st kids, if they prove thaty want to learn and trun up everyday for a while then they might get a place ion the actuall school.
I really really enjoyed my time in Vrindavan, a little haven. And they say I am wellcome back anytime to go stay with them and maybe even convert, not that I think id go quit ethat far.






The completley mesmorizing Taj Mahal, or just The Taj as you can call it once you´ve been (he he so smug!! you are allowed to nudge me when I do things like this now) Anyway, I wa-as looking forward to seeing this building and had read about it before hand, about the labour of Love that it was and Shah Jahan the arhitect who designed and built it over 22yrs, built it in memory of his 2nd wife. On her death bed, one of her requests was that he build her something to remember her by, something wonderful, and that he really did. The other 2 requests were look afte rtheir 14 children, which he did (one of which later inprissoned him in a palace within a large Fort which sits about 5km away from The Taj but within seeing distance. The other was to not marry again, which Shah never did, although, technically he did also have another wife at the same time as his 2nd wife, so probably had enough on his plate already, what with her, 14 kids and building fabulous mausoleoms and mosques left right and centre!
I arrived at The Taj atr sunrise, or maybe just a few min later by the time id got my ticket etc. Unfortunatly the sky was a dissapointig shade of off white! this wasnt such an amazing backdrop against an off white building! anyway, putting this aside, there were a lot fewer people at this time, so I was able to get snap happy, with purely the Taj in the shots and not a million other toursists. Everything about this building and the grounds surrounding it are symetrical, every side you goi to looks the same. The 4 pillars that protect he main building lean slightly out wards so that incase of an earthquake, they would fall away from the building an thus not damaging it in any way - clever hey! What was so striking also was how clean it was, the white / grey marble almost glows and gleams in the bright day light, even now 18 yrs later. Flowered patterns run and dance around the door ways and walls, these are made up of semi precious stones, greens,yellows and reds, all cut to size and inlaid into the marble, then mirrored on the opposite wall to keep th symetry. In the centre of the building is the mausolem. This area is dimly lit and has 2 marble structures where it is said the bodies of Shah and hios 2nd wife are, but actually as this area gets visited by thousands of tourists per day, and so can get nosiy, the bodies are actually laid in a room underneath the Taj instead, as it is meant to be a calm restiung place for thir souls so obviously with so many visitors and all the chattering upsatirs they wouldnt get the rest or the respect they needed to be at peace in the main room, quite understandable. This whole place really is phenomanal, it was exciting to be there, really soak it all in, see the passion Shah must have felt whislt creating this masterpiece, much much more than just a building, and his level of patience must have been so incredibly high as it took so so long to complete. I think that the TheTaj is the most radiant building that I have ever seen. It has a presence that untill you are in its presence, you just cant appreciate.















Had such a lovely day here in Jaipur, it was about my 2nd night I think when I met Katie, below, shes lovely and we got chatting on the roof terrace in the evening. Shes been living in Mumbai earlier in the yr working for Christies and now is trying to set up her own buisness in textiles & interiors, thats her interest. So shes out here for 3-4 wks sourcing fabrics, designers & inspiration. Sounds really exciting. We spent the next day together, I was due to leave but it was going to be a Sunday and its never good to travel or do anything too strenuous on a Sunday, and she lent me a book that evening called Love Jaipur, which is written by a woman who has started really lovely travel books about certain areas and listing all her favourite thing, more interesting than the
lonely planet! So, I was up for hours reading about all these wonderful places I had yet to visit, so thought I couldn't possibly leave just yet, and it was so lovely to hang around with a lovely girl for a bit, have a bit of good company. So, over breakfast I made a plan, there was a textile museum and exhibition / workspace that I had wanted to see in neighbouring Amber, I had read about it a few days earlier and wanted to go, Katie had been and said it was really great, so that sealed the deal. Also I had been this companies shop, here in Jaipur, in a rather swanky quieter side of town, away from the crowds, and really loved the a) quiet shopping experience,makes a change, b) in a air con building, C) all the fabrics, clothes accessories were really bright and beautiful and d) it was a really ethical company, so good to support it. Katie and I took a mad rickshaw through the busy little streets out of town to a place called Amber, famous for its 2 stunning forts, 1 of which, The Amber Fort is glowing amber orange and perched on the hill, really impressive, I didn't go in, but could see it all from the out side anyway, snaking its way around this small town. Elephants roamed the streets, poor things, don't think their treated very nicely :( I went off to the Anoki Museum and Katie to the Fort. I had a bit of a walk as the rickshaw man was a bit of an idiot, so we both just got out together and I made my own way to the museum. It was really beautiful, I was so so freaking hot when I got there though as it turned out to be about a 2km walk, sweating buckets, anyway... It was this old house that had been lovingly restored and in each of the rooms around its sun filled court yard were old textiles, outfits, modern & antique, and captions about how this block printing company came about, who was involved and the trends, highs and lows of block printing in this day and age, and how fashion has dictated a need and love for it and helped the skill and way of working survive. On the roof there were 2 men, 1 was hand carving these wonderful wooden designs out of blocks and the other, actually doing, or showing me some block printing, they had a huge area to do it in, all out doors on this roof terrace. It must take so so much time and patience. I had a go and we made a pretty blue & white hankie together, it was great then he gave it to me, ill show it to you on my return. Later, Katie and I treated ourselves to a swim and laze by a lovely pool set in the gardens of a very fancy hotel, then we ate fantastic tasting samosas, panner fritters with green spicy chili dip & hand cut fries, and freshly squeezed pineapple juice, mmmm delish!!! Such a good day- Ooh and we stopped off at Abduls shop on the way home, I wanted another pair of his lovely shoes and thought Katie might as well, she brought 3 pairs!!, took a break just in time from the monsoon that had just hit, so there we were, stranded in his tiny shop, nothing to do but try try try on lots of glittering pairs of shoes, I can think of worse ways to spend half an hour! Then we took a cycle rickshaw home (I like to use those rather than the motorized ones, better for the environment, the streets like rivers, we had a funny rickshaw man as well, we took lots of pictures.
















Jaipur. Shopping, Shoes and sun bathing on roof top terraces.
I stayed at a really lovely hotel here, still on my budget but just really fresh and clean, my room was on the top floor and looked out into the pretty roof terrace, where I would take ginger, honey & lemon tea, read my book and travel guide and chat to fellow guests. Always so so lovely to have an out door space, especially one where you can soak up the sun shine, eat, and just get away from the intense streets for a while. Also its a great place to meet fellow travellers, otherwise your all just in your rooms as India doesn't really do dorms and it can get a little bit lonely. I was really excited about coming to Jaipur. For 1 it was the gateway to Rajesthan, the 1st of the coloured cities, this being the Pink City, the buildings apparently glow pinkish from the plaster work, at sunset - actually this is a little bit far fetched and the plaster work is all a bit dirty and scruffy now, in need of a good paint job then I think it could have its title back on Pink City. But, it was also a great place to shop I had been told and read. I couldn't wait, so off to the bazaars I went. Well, I didn't even make it as far as the 1st bazaar when I came across Abdul and his wonderful shoe shop, Rajasthan is famous for its pointy toed shoes, they come in all colours, mainly bright and with wonderful designs stitched into them with various coloured threads. I was happy happy happy,I can tell you and old Abdul, was in his element bringing out pair after colourful pair of pointy wonders to try on, they covered the shop floor once I had done. I selected a pair, just the one, took few pictures for memory of this lovely experience and off I toddled to the main Bazaars. Woowee, what an experience. So much to see, lots going on. I even stopped just before I went home for the day and had henna work done on my hand, it was really pretty and lasted about 5 days.

Oh my goodness, the bazaars are hard work!! you couldn't move an inch without yet another male shopkeeper in your face demanding you to come into his shop, Madam come here! I don't respond to this. Madam, 1 question (ill tell you later, but his is never just 1 question its 20 and its always the same 20!) so again I don't respond to this. COME IN MY SHOP! COME. HERE!! Rather sternly and aggressively, Indian men are SO BOSSY!!! - again, I don't respond to demands like this, or hisses, or Lady! or someone waving a garment in my face so that it actually touches my nose! For goodness sake I thought shopping was meant to be fun!! This was a mine field and was obviously going to take a bot of strategic planning, just to navigate my way through, having a good old look, sussing out prices and bargains, haggling my head off, trying to enjoy the experience and also trying not to offend or be rude as I go. Polite but firm, is my mantra. Selective hearing and constant lies and bullshit is another good and useful tactic, used allot, over the later weeks. And a lot of sycing myself up and being in the right frame of mind, otherwise there is simply no use and the plan goes to pot! Bloody hell, I bet your tired just reading this, well, imagine getting from A-B everyday like this.
One of the mornings, I don't know quite why, maybe I was just hot, and maybe a little bit lonely, but I was trying to find the palace, to take in a bit of history, and wanted to stroll there from my hotel, its about a 3-4km walk, not a great distance, and I really like to walk, but in India, its not always so easy to do, just too many people, not much pavement, too many cows and rickshaws and touts, that its near impossible, but you know me, I like a challenge. So after setting out, already getting hot and very sticky and fending off rickshaw men by the second, I finally managed to get to the bazaar, which are all around the palace, well, I didn't exactly know the route, which made my plan a little trickier, and because everything is always so madly busy and you cant stop to look where you are going for fear of being pounced on by touts, shop keepers, rickshaw men, homeless beggars, there are no road signs, and hard to find a genuine person to ask (they probably lead you to their shop instead) You also have to watch your step for fear of standing in cow shit, or falling down uneven pavement, hole in the road or pile of rubbish or food, so this does make navigating rather tricky indeed. Anyway, There I was, fighting my way through the craziness, knowing that I was only 10min or so from the palace so still holding out on getting a rickshaw through pure defiance, yet not knowing which narrow st to turn down. I have 3 shop keepers literally in my face all shouting for attention, I just raised my voice into a low shout, STOP, JUST ALL STOP FOR A MOMENT, LEASE!!! Well, on hearing this, they all jumped back in surprise, looked at me slightly nervously then at each other in the same way ( I don't think people normally react like this, though I cant understand how they don't!) it worked, if only for 2 seconds, enough for me to edge away and them to pounce onto someone else. Then still overwhelmed by it all, I notice to my left someone thrashing some tire or piece of material with a metal hammer type thing, I thought that second that this was very dangerous what with all of the people passing by right next to where he was hammering, on the edge of his shop, IE, the pavement, but hey this is India and everything is done everywhere, there are no airs nor graces or best places to do such things, only if something needs doing, whether it be weeing or doing a poo or hammering something or fixing a motor bike or praying, its done, simply, there and then in full view and way of everyone. Then just as I'm thinking DANGER, danger strikes, the hammer flies out of this mans hand and hits me WHAM! in the left shin, then falls onto my left foot - fucking shit!!! and I'm sorry for my expletives but desperate times require bloody strong launguage!! Oh my goodness, tears were in my eyes, its really hurt!!! and was bruising imediatly, it was just too much to take and had summed up my morning, I limped to the doorway, giving evil looks to gthe men as I went through glassy eyes. In their favour, they were actually rather sweet and very apologetic, ¨madam are you ok, has it gone through to the bone?¨ me - not it bloody hasn't but it is bruising!! you have to be more careful!¨ the man - ÿes madam, we are so sorry, rub it fast, quick, it will stop it hurting¨Me - only thinking - just bugger off!! I actually said, it really hurts, im fine im fine, and just limped away, so wanting to just climb into a rickshaw, head back to gthe hotel and get back into bed with my bruised leg - ouch!! But, In true Cate style bought a bar of cadburys dairy milk to ease the pain., & soldiered on. Of course the dairy milk had once melted then been re-fridged, so it was all stuck to the foil insid eth wrapper, hence making it freaking impossible to take a bite without getting a mothful oif foil, which is never kind on the fillings, so this just pissed me off more, so I ended up giving it to a cute st kid who wlaked beside me and asked me fo rsome food, she was delighted, and that made me happy. A good thing actually, for the st kids, homeless and also my thighs is that food never lasts long in my bag. I always buy some cookies or a few toffees or treats or a drink o see me through till my next wonderful naan or curry but am always approached by an adorable grubby face or desperate mother wanting some food for her kids that are haing around naled around her ankles so im always able to give them something, and I perfer this rather than money, becasue you can see where its going, right into their hungry grateful mouths and not an agents or someone who is expolitoing thems pocket. And not onto my thighs, which is a bonus! So, I finally reached the palace, wel done me, bloody exhausted, but it was worth it, my day turned around and it was great just ambling around this place, looking at the beautifully painted door ways of peacocks and feathers, amazing colours, watching as the rain came down, doing a spot more shopping in some quiter eerry shops, then heading back, out into the day.






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Pushkar

This is the white city. I was expected to be blown away by the radiant white beauty of its buildings near the sacred lake. A lake where Gandis ashes are scattered, and hundreds of people come to bathe in the sacred ghats (small pools, supposedly filled with holy healing waters). But, I just wasn´t. I wasn´t blown away. I did like Pushkar, it took a while, I needed a good wander round 1st. Time to dodge the touristy shops and plethora of hounding shop keepers and the odd pushy priest and lazy layabout. When I finally made it to the lake and the famous ghats, I was pleasantly suprized. But firstly I was apprached rather abrubtly by a man forcing a pathetic wilting pink flower into my hand and telling me to go and float it into the lake for good luck. Well I had no choice but to take it, but then, you dont get anything for nothing not even a crappy half dead flower, so he persued me untill I was a bit closer to the steps leading to the lake. I was dubious already then even more so when his mate came up to me and insisted he was a priest and that I had to be guided down to the waters edge and needed a wrist band and a which would be my passport to do this and then throw my flower in, for this he would undoubtedly want money! Now - this ¨priest¨ was wearing a black tshirt with some rock band giving the finger on it! not really I thought, and said to him what I thought a priest would wear, and he was actually rather pushy and aggresive, so I gave him the crappy flower back and said I was quite happy to go on my own (not quite knowing if this was allowed but feeling iot was better than being stuck with this fake! He didnt like that one bit and waved his hand at me to get out of his sight. Sod him I thought and carried on, carrefully, shoes off, dressed modestly and trying not to upset anyone as I went. Families were bathing and the sun was shining on the little water that was in the lake, it was actually only monsoon water as the lake has been empty for a while. I wandered further when I was appreoached by another preist, this time, he looked the part, head to toe in white, an old wize face, so I thought, yes id like to get involved with whats going on and do a bit of a ritual, so we did. He handed me a metal plate with pink and white flowers on, rice, seeds, orange and red powder and he held a coconut. We crouched by the waters edge, him saying some mantras and me repeating them. I named all of my family and some friends (its tricky when your put on tghe spot to name everyone, but the thought was there) then we threw some of the flowers and rice into the water, he tied this passport, which us a red and white piece of string around my right wrist, we chant more, he gives me a red and orange dot and places rice on my forehead, then were done, and hopefully all of my family, me and my friends will have good karma and Ill have safe travels, all for the price of 1 pound 40, not bad hey! An intersteing way to start the day. Im still wearing my passport, think I will till it drops off otherwize the good karma may not happen.
The 1st night, im in town looking for somewhjwre to eat, having a good explore and taking some photos when Monsoon strikes. Well, in places like this, all these tiny narrow streets tuen to mush and flow like rivers within minutes of tghe rain starting. Its really magical. It was handy as I was near the best sweet / cake shop in town, funnily enough, so had a good old look at what they had to offer, took a little box to try and sat inside for shelter, for quite a while. I leanrt all a bout the sweets, these really sugery, buttery treats, as I was at a table with a man who was living with the owners for a few weeks to learn their trade and how to make all of these edibles. He was really enjoying his time here and made notes of recipes and names of them all for me in my note book. 1 of them, the bright yellow one, looked like marzipan and tasted of roses, really perfumed tasting, and sweet and crunchy with nuts. Others were soft and gooey. Most just melted in yiour mouth, pure sugar. They are even too sweet for me though and thats saying something, only a bite or 2 will sufice anyones sweet tooth, even mine. Worth a try, but not my favourite things. Popular with the locals though.



Bundi, Bundi, Bundi

When drawing up to Bundi from the winding rd on my bumpy and hot, sticky cramped 5hr bus journey with my rucksack inbetween my legs. I glanced out of the window, not realising we were already on the edge of the city, and was faced with this radiant powder blue city, with a majestic Palace perched over looking it and a grand fort over looking that and actually surrounding the whole of this town nestled in this pretty valley.

When walking to the Palace on the hill, I noticed these 2 hogs having a cooling soak in the gutter, soo cute, cooling down a bit as it was so so hot and humid he he, cheeky pigs.

I love the building below, it was so ghostly, the part of the lower half of the mens section of the palace, looks different from the rest, neglected and a bit grafitied with these 2 stark knarley trees guarding the entrance.






















Bundi is a small place, I was intrigued to visit, I like small places, with understated things to offer. Everyday life and of course a Palace. I stayed in a lovely hotel right in front of the Palace. From the roof it looked absolutloy amazing, this slightly crumbling building standing proud on top of this hill. I went to explore and it was still very grand, full of art work which, in places, looked practically brand new, despite being 300-500yrs earlier, the colours were so vibrant. Some of the rooms were covered from floor to ceiling in hundredsof drawings, telling many different intersting stories or battles, kings and thier wives, myths, gods, it was like illustrations of childrens story books had been played out all over the rooms of this palace, reaally intricate nd ful of life. Really beautiful, and must have been so vibrant and eye catching in its day. I wandered along with some monkies, arond this palace for hours, in and out of all its rooms and up & down the winding sometimes secret pasages and staircases. There was also a fort behind the palace and actually all around the town, gently running along the top of the hills protecting this quiet town in the valley.







Such a lovely lovely experience happened to me the night I was leaving Bundi. I had gone out for a loittle look around the bazaar about 6pm, before I was due to catch my 1st overnight bus to Udaipurte at 10:30pm. Always time for a bit of shopping, so there I was wandering along, when someone kind of took my hand. I looked around and a girl of about 20, a sweet, tuiny girl was looking at me and smiling, she suddenly said, whats your name? I said and asked hers and then she said would I like to go to the temple with her and her family as they were about to go as it was a special occasion. Ooh I though, I could just say no and potter aroun dthis bazaar Or, I could go with them, take a chance and see what this temple and family were all about. Im trying to say yes to things more, rather than no. So, I say yes, that would be lovely and in the next few seconds meet her uncle, aunt, mum and cousin and we all pile into gthe back of a motor rikshaw and head, 20min out of town to their temple. Which, is on top of a hill, with about 300 steps leading to it, goats laying everywhere and tons of people all over. So, on the journey I chatted to all of the family, well, only Meena, the girl on the left above and the dad, her uncle know english, the couson did a bit too. The aunts just smiled and giggled. I made alittle video of us motoring through the countryside and them pointiong out beautiful lakes and other sights for me to enjoy. One of the aunts pointed out my ring, and smiled then took off one of her rings, just costume jewelery, gold coloured with sparkly jewels in it and let me ry it on, i smiled and said it was pretty and she insisted I have it! Then, when we reached the temple, at the bottom of the steps, I and one of the aunts bought some offerings, a little plastic bag filled with increible smelling cream flowers, rice, incense and canndy sweets. We trecked up the hundreds of steps, stopping occasionally for the aunts to catch their breath, and to take a few photos of my new friends. Sunset was drifting down as we reached the top, we had agreat views over the countryside. Then, our shoes, already off, we climbed the final steps to the temple, insense and sweet smoke filling the air, bells ringing, as this is what everyone does when they enter the temple. ring one of the 20 bells hanging from the roof, creating a clattering sound as they chime, lots of people hustling in all directions, pushing and shoving their way to the alter to offer these flowers etc and get a red dot on their head and be blessed. There is rice all over the floor, a bit awkward to walk on, im taking pictures, discreatly, I did check and its ok to do, we get our blessing, everything takes place really quickly, no hanging around, people are chanting and music fills the air, we then walk around the alter once, to complete the process then its back down the hill. Im always suprized at these temples and mosques, its always so lively, unordered, hustle and bustle which I supose shouldnt really suprize me, given what India is like, but its just so so difernt than going to a catholic church. I like it. Its brief, entertaining, full of energy and spirit. So, were making our way doen the steps and ive already told them I have a bus to catch later on, as I didnt know how long the ceremony would take. And they´re askingme what I thought, and Meena actually asks me, am I happy with her, am I happy? Its a suprizing question to be asked, to be bothered about like that from a complete stranger. Yes I said, I am, thank you so much for inviting me along, they said it was all of their pleasures and thank you for coming with them. Brilliant. Now the dad asks if I would join them for dinner, erm, lovely I say, asking if they live back in town, as thats where my bus was leavubg from later, yes they do. Back in a rickshaw, Meena and I in the back, almost the boot of this one, being bounced around, them saying I was really pretty, which is obviously such a lovely compliment and I think its just becasue I look so different from them, they find it intriguing, I repay the compliment and off we toddle, answering lots of questions for each other, to the family home. It was actually right by my hotel so that was handy! We enter and I meet another 2 cousins of Meena, 1 boy 1 girl and we go up their narrpw stairs into a bedroom come dinning room. They give me 1 of the 2 chairs, and the rest sit on the bed, floor and window sills, then a table is placed before me and Meena comes in with a bowl of yumi dahl and 2 thick bread doughy rolls. Arnt´you eating I say, later, as were still fasting till we see the moon, of course, this had been the special occasion, but a litle awkward to be eating on my own, in the middle of their lounge, with them all stariing at me, smiling. So, im eating and the Dad, tells me to tear up the bread rolls and put them into my dahl, I start to do this, but bit by bit, so it doesnt go soggy. Well, in true Indian mana of the house style, this just wont do and the dad grabs, ever so calmly, one of my rolls and grinds it up with his hand, and plonks some of it in my dahl, Oh My goodness!! that is disgusting im thinking whilst rrrrreally trying not to show it, soooo sooo rude to grab and touch my food!! but In india, the culture is so SO SO different and whats rude in England, just isnt, here. Im thinking all the while I hope your hands are clean!! I should have said, ooh stop, in a polite voice, and said I can do it myself, but he is the man of the house and I am a woman, and a guest, so I smile, and eat the crumbled bread, as more dahl gets poured into my bowl, am going to be farting all night on the bus I thought! At this point, he himself and been brought his food and was tucking in, also putting buiscuts on my plate too. After dinner, Meena did some henna on the palm of my hand and wrist, writing my name and decorating it. Then after more pictures have been taken, we head to the roof, to see the night sky and the palace up on the hill where I had been that day. It was lit yup and glowing in the golden light. its up on the roof that I meet grandma, asleep on a blanket. They wake her up and we are introduced, shes deaf im told, as one of them shouts loudly my mae into her right ear. We make our way back down stairs, take lots of family pics, with me included, camera on timer, its fun, and so bizare! Then, one of the aunties appears in the doorway waering such a beautiful red and gold sari, covered in sequins, all glittery. Everyone smiles and tells her she looks beautiful, and she realy does. Then its my turn, they want to dress me up in this sari, dress the english girl up,like a doll hehe! Was fun. One of the girls is turning me round, tucking the sari in,in all the nessesary places, making ruuffles and twists so it stays on and falls correctly, another one is taking LOTS of pictures, recording every step. Every,including the dad and grandma are gathered around me, smiling, laughing, making me laugh. Take a look below. I really dont know what it is about me, but people always , always just want to take care of me, fuss over me, feed me!! its brilliant! they keep asking me to stay another day, so lovely of them. I´m afraid I cant, so I say my goodbyes and its been such a wonderful refreshing experience, we swap emails and I tell them ill send them gthe pictures, and I will. Meena runs off and gets a pair of black and white flower earings and both of the girls put them in my ears, just to complete my look and the evening. I say goodbye again and they all come out onto the narrow street to wave me off , I keep looking back as I go, and ther´re stil there, waving. I cant stop smiling, all the way on my night cramped journey to Udaipur.
It was my 1st night journey oin India and I was a little aprehensive. I booked myself a single berth bed as advised by my new friend Katie whom I met and spent a couple of days with in Jaipur. Well, as I get on the bus, luckily with 3 french guys near me, im lead to my ¨bed¨. We approach and this guy crawls out, OMG I have a sudden horror that actually I might have to share with him, this tiny cramped bed, please PLEASE NO! Very luckily, this wasnt the case, he was just being a little bit cheeky and having a rest in there untill someone claimed it. Well, its mine I thought so out you get Mr! I had to actually take my rucksack onto the small bed with me, and my other little bags now whcih I had 2 of since I have been doing a bit of shopping along the way. That didnt leave much room for little old me, I can tell you. My bed was up high, there were seats under the beds or like mine, another bed. There is glass all down one side, and windows that open fully and lead out of the bus into the night sky on the other side. In I climb, a bit cramped and slightly sticking to the plether, obv no sheets or pillows. A v bumpy ride follows, due to a very bad road all the way, 9hrs to Udaipur, but it was afe, and an experience, kind of funny, so thats good.












Udaipur

The city of lakes and Palaces.
I treated myself a little here to a nicer hotel and room than I usually have, not super swanky but sweet, nicely decorated, with a view over the city from gthe 3rd floor, a bath tub whoop! and window seats with rounded red velvet sausage cushions, somewhere to read my book, watch the rain and city from above. Take a look at my sweet room, with coloured glass shaped windows, sorry for the mess eek. And I ordered really tasty room service. Butter chicken & butter naan, notthe best pic but look how good the naan is, really doughy in the middle then crisp on the outside, and all the buttery goodness. The curry was tomatoey and spicy, not at all what I thought butter chicken would be like, but thats often the case, im eating real indian great food here full of taste and rich in spices and flavour. I think the english and western versions have been adapted and are more creamy and saucy and not as rich in spices. And the decadance of ordering room service, eating on my bed, which I love (such a piggy) he he, watching a bollywood film, was so brilliant. Except I couldnt get the subtitles to work, and I asked Jagdesh, when he brought the food, really nice guy who worked as a waiter / other things here, if he could get the subtitles and does he know the film. It was called Whats your (Starsign) he told me. I got the jist anyway and the subtitles didnt work, but I watched most of it anyway. This guy was having an arranged marriage and meeting all of these really pretty girls, all of them beautiful and anting him of course. Then him getting to pick. It was all kind of obvious, love stories, dancing, music, bloody good really, gonna look it up when im back and watch it properly.
The rain completly lashed it down a couple of times whilst I was in Udaipur, and I always seem to be stranded somewhere when the rains come, never cosily in my room, even though I can see all the signs, the sky darkening, the thunder rolling and bellowing through the moody sky, then the light spit droplets at first, then the heavens completly open and the rain pours in huge fat heavy droplets, like theres no tomorrow, and like it will never ever stop! Its mesmorizing to watch, and so refreshing to get soaked through, in seconds. When it rained, this 1st time I was on one of the many roof top restaurants, everything was getting soaked through as there were no glass windows just large spaces, only a roof, and the wind was howling and blowing the hard heavy rain all through this space. So, there I was, huddled with the chef and the waiter in the tiny kitchen, not quite knowing how long this would last. It is nice to get wet, but sometimes its just easier not too, not to have to run or walk through the river like streets, slipping and sliding everywhere, then being absolutly wet through and hanging up all your clothes to dry in the small bathroom. Well, I was here anyway, so thought, and was told by a guy linked ot the restaurant theat was now on the roof too, that, If I still wated to eat, then I could, I did wonder where, bu tthen there was a small space, about enough for a chair, just in the kitchen doorway, so I thouight, why not. I ordered chocolate pancakes, mmm I love pancakes, and these were what id come in for, having had a larger lunch, so the chef was more than happy to make these for me, and I ate, amid a storm, on a roof top, in the lake city, outside the kitchen door, on a plastic chair, in the monsoon, chocolate pancakes.















Ahemedabad

Only a brief stop over here, I arrive din the afternoon after a 5hr bus journey from Udaipur. The bus journey was fine, on a private bus and cookies as so often is the case on early morning journeys, were my breakfast. But after checking in to my rather boring, slightly grimy hotle, with bell boys the age of grandfathers and an interior to match, I got the hell out of my bleak room and headed out for something proper to eat. It wa Sunday ater all and, that should be a day of rest and lots of amazing food. I found a place in the LP not far from where I was staying. A little out door spot, full of well to do indians & a few westerners all out with their families and friends ejoying this little oasis attached to a swanky hotel, for a long leasiurly lunch. Browsing the menu for things I hadnt yet tried, and trying not to be distracted by the dessert menu which I had alsready observed had Kulfi, fresh homemade ice cream and deliious Jalebis, those sweet sticky fritter type squiggles id tried back in Vrindavan, mmmm. No savory 1st Cate. I decided on one of the specials of the day, mixed green veggies cooked with a blend of spices, good for the iron intake I thought and these large doughy puff type things, sorry cant quite remember the name (am wracking my brains) the picture looked good and it was an indian bread that I hadnt yet tried. The veggies were really yumi, a little bit spicy, lots of green beans, and a plater of chutneys and onions etc came with my dishes too, I split open 1 of the puffed up bread rolls and filled it with chutneys and greens, yumi, there was lots and I could only manage 1, so had the other wrapped up nicely to take home, it never quite made it there however as a little hungry girl came up to me later, she needed the food more than I did. Along with my mains I had a fresh water melon juice delicious. Then I ordered Kulfi, fresh home curned ice cream, ginger & lemon flavour, mmm mmm, might just come back for another on my way home I thought, greedy me, I didnt in the end though, just so you know.



Ididnt have long here before the rains came, I only had time to cross and linger on a large bridge, that divides the city in 2, the scenary of the city scape on either side, with the huge dark grey powerful clouds building above, was intense. As was, unfortunatly, and so sad, the slums, on the edge of the river bank. Tiny squats made of card board, corregated iron and plastic sheeting. Kids playing in the dirt and the concret tubing discarded there, waiting to be used in progress for something. These people have nothing and over looking this were large buildings, nice flats. I wonder what the people living in these nice homes think everyday when they look out and see the squallor beneath. The unfortunate people who have NOTHING. Again, I feel a little bit teary, standing their, getting hooted at by the passing motor cycles and rikshaws. I´m really really incredibly lucky. And these children, playing now, without a care in the world, soon will have the burden that their parents feel every day, the burden of having nothing and barely scraping by. I stand there and wonder if any of them will escape from this onto something positive and a better life.....



Ialso watched some kids on the other side of the river bank, playing cricket, so sweet. All ages, running around, the little ones copying the older kids, trying to play a game at the side of theirs too. 2 of the teenage boys spotted me up on the bridge and gestured fo rme to take their picture. They stood, smiling, arms folded, side by side of each other, proud. I took a couple and waved at them. Bugger, I have no zoom, or else the pics of them would have been closer and clearer but you can just make them out, standing side by side at the middle left of the pic.




Fort Cochin - Kerala. Below, to the right is the lovely Jessie
whom I met on my day trip to an island just off the Fort Peninsula. She guided me onto the correct boat for the short crossing and we chatted all the way. She was so sweet and kind. Asking all of the usual questions about me and my background and I the same with her. I love this about travelling, I meet such kind, generous, sincere people, wanting to know all about me and look after me, think I must have one of those faces, one that says, half that I know what im doing and im confiodent about doing it but the other half says -please help me, I dont really know what Im doing, how to do it and I like to eat really good food! because a lot of the time these lovely people offer to cook for me at their homes!. Jessie did, she gave me her phone number and address for me to call her later if id like to have dinner with her and her policeman son and husband and do I like chicken and rice he he. I said well yes I do, thank you very much, im not sure what im up to later Jessie but I can give you a call. After the 5min boat ride, she made sure I was on the correct bus that headed to the Cherai beach, my destination for that day, she was visiting her sister and hoped on the bus with me and also was so kind enough to buy my ticket and make sure the conductor knew where I needed to get off and to tell me when, and also find me a seat! e ticket was only about 16p but still, these people dont have very much and still they give give give not only money, or possesions, but their time and patience, its beautifully overwhelming. So I wasnt sure if I was going to go for dinner but I wanted to give her something in return. Then, I remembered a pair of gold and pearl earings that someone, actually in a bus with Age back in Equador had given me because Age had given their son a couple of car toys from a kinder egg that he´d had in his bag from Christmas! They were pretty earings but I knew I would never wear them and actually I think would suit my new friend rather nicely. Perfect I thought, so I pulled them out of my camera case where they have been all of this time and as Jessie was about to get off at her stop, I handed them to her and said these are for you, I think they will look pretty on you, well, oh my goodness, she was pleased as punch, her large round face lit up and she cupped my face in her chubby hands and squeezed it and gave me a kiss on each cheek then pulled me into her large bosom and hugged me, twice really tightly!! I nearly cried, it was such a lovely moment, for both of us, she was beaming and I was grinning. These are the best bits about travelling, moments like this. I didnt see Jessie again, I was a bit burnt from the beach and then the monsoons came, so I didnt make it for dinner, but I will always remeber that lovely little boat and bus ride, and her wonderfully happy face.
I spent the day at the beach, huddled with the other westerners on a small patch of narrow beach, beaches in India really dont match up to the amazing Caribbean or Australian ones I have had the pleasure of laying on but it was just so nice to be back near the sea and have sand on my toes. Of course as it is India, I sun bathed with my sarong wrapped around me, so from my thighs to my cheast were covered, just too many young boys with camera phones and a few stary men hanging around to bare too much flesh. Another funny thing, I was sat there reading my trashy novel when 2 men came over, one holding a cute chubby baby, and as I looked up, plonked the baby onto my lap, saying at the same time, 1 picture madam, 1 picture. This made me smile. Err, ok. So I greeted the baby, who couldnt take his big brown eyes off me, the white lady with fairly pale skin, however much his dad and uncle cooed and clicked thier fingers, he he, they loved it and were very happy with their 1 picture, I should have asked they take 1 with my camera too, just so I could look back on this funny moment too. It is going to be strange coming home and not being the novelty anymore, not being starred at, photographed, approcahed lots, it will be great, dont get me wrong, but maybe, just maybe, I may miss some of the attention..., a little, maybe...?



Back on Fort Cochin I was taking some photos of the fishermen and their famous nets, these huge net and wooden contraptions, all in a row on their shore, waiting patiently for fish to fill them. Its quite a long and time consuming process and I read that its dying out here due to quicker more efficient ways, probably with boats and bigger mechanical machinary. The old guys noticed me takin thier photo and summoned me aboard their huge net. I walke dthe plank onto its uneven surface, greetd the 4 guys and took some more pictures. Think they liked the attention. Then one of them held my camera whilst I along wioth them helped bring the nets up and see if they had caught anything, thought I was actually just posing fo rthe picture but actually I did help hoist the heavy net up out of the water, bloomin hard work, as you can see! Not many fish this morning, tiny tiddlers, if that. I made a little contribution, said my goodbyes and walked the planks back onto dry land, Ah, I like to help.
















Allepey - into the backwaters of Kerala



Such a wonderful day lazing in a tiny boat being paddled around by a 73 yr old man through the backwaters in Kerala from a little town called Allepey. Myself and 2 lovely french girls, Delphine & Solmine, just sat back like princesses, soaking up the warm sun shine, pure tranquility and day to day goings on of this intersting and alternative way of life. There are no roads around here, in this particular section of Keralan backwaters, just large waterways and tiny narrow canals veering off the larger ones here there and everywhere, and large fresh vibrant green paddy fields. The water acts as a backbone of life for everyone who lives here, it is the structure for which everything these people do and are revolves around. It is a brilliant mode of transportaion, a large source of income, as many people have beautiful whicker house boats for hire. A washing facility, we saw many a clothed person bathing as we sailed by, quite strange really being a voyer, observing people mid wash soap and all!! A tremendous food source, we ate the most incredible huge prawns for lunch fresh from the water that morning. And, thus, a large toursist attraction.




















Allepey